Saturday, May 9, 2015

A Sushi Lover's Rant


I've seen enough Asian Carp videos on Youtube to make me laugh, but nothing bothered me more than this very rural American asking an Asian sushi chef if Japanese eat fresh water sushi.  He goes on to ask about lake fish like Walleye which isn't even native to Japan.  The chef responds that they don't use fresh water fish in their sushi bar because of the parasite concerns.   

You see, in America sushi is heavily regulated.  Because the demand for freshness in America is horrid compared to Japanese fish standards, the laws were provided to assure consumers protection from parasites.  Having said this, Japan gets around such laws because freshness of the fish is established at the distribution level mores so than the restaurant level.

If this doesn't make sense, I'd advise you to watch a documentary on Tsukiji Fish Market on NHK.  They go into details about flash freezing technology, the buyer's intent to buy the freshest fishes, and the sellers intent to only get fresh fish from the fisherman.

This relationship is what is revered by chefs around the globe.  Sushi looks simple enough, but each sushi is designed and conjured specifically for the species of fish.  The one bite you take is designed and engineered 2,000 years ago from chefs during the Samurai.

Having said this, people mistake sushi for just simply fish and rice.  Nothing special.  Each fish is prepared differently and served at different temperatures to assure freshness and taste.

That's why a real good sushi house won't offer soy sauce.  That's because the chef's will brush a lighter soy sauce or a stronger soy sauce they have created for you before they serve you.  That glossy texture over the sushi is their soy sauce brushed.

I can go into detail about sushi all day, but it's probably better if you watch "Jiro Dreams of Sushi" or even the small New York Times piece on "Sushi Nakazawa".  Both chefs Jiro Ono and Daisuke Nakazawa are heavily featured in the documentary talking about the need to appreciate Japanese traditions in sushi.

And so here's my rant.  Why is it that the rural American bother to post a very disturbing video mocking and asking a sushi chef if they would eat or serve fresh water sushi?  Obviously this is because the guy is used to Walleye and the Asian Carp being fishes he sees in his river or lake.

Sure, those are very popular and common fishes in rural America, but does he miss the point?  In Japan, fresh water fish is revered and eaten just as much as ocean fish are eaten?   Japanese do not separate what is edible by fresh water species verses ocean water species.  Anything is edible if the sushi chef feel it is fresh enough and delicious enough.

That's what sushi is.  It's an appreciation for the arts.  It's an appreciation for fish.   Unlike this rural guy who obviously doesn't get the history of sushi, Japanese people worship and revere fish they consume.

So yes, we eat fresh water sushi.  We have to.  It's our heritage and respect to do so.  Fishes like Kohada also known as lake gizzard shad is a precious fish from the fresh water lakes.  Think about it, it's been around since the Edo Period.   Are you telling me that we should question if fresh water fish is edible as sushi?  It's been around longer than George Washington himself.

For me, we just fail at adopting more appreciation for the food we eat.  Whether if it is cow, pig, deer, or anything else, we disassociate ourselves with it out of convenience.  The gross factor really allows us to appreciate our food.

Yet, when it comes to fish, we know what a fish looks like right?  Yet, why is it that we can't get our heads around eating them regardless of species?  Why is it that some how Asian Carp is seen as inedible by rural America?  Why is it that this rural American guy wants to question the integrity of fresh water sushi?

It exists.  It always has.  It's just prepared differently.  And trust me, sushi chefs in Japan have always found ways to bring it to the table so that it is safe and tasty.  They are perfectionists in the art.  The idea that fresh water fish is too dangerous to eat is a fallacy.  

Just look at one of the most revered fishes to eat in the sushi kingdom, fugu?  Fugu is blowfish and that is extremely poisonous.  Yet, you want to sit there and tell me that's acceptable while fresh water fish isn't?

The only fish you should avoid to eat is Escolar.  In America they serve it as "white tuna".   Nothing can be further from the truth.  White Tuna or Escolar is not permitted in Japan.  The fish gives you sickness in your stomach and every time you will go home a bit sick.  

America is the only nation that offers Escolar on the menu.  If you want to question the integrity of sushi, you shouldn't question Japanese sushi chefs.  You should question the politicians that regulate food.  It's a failure.

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